Embedded Files
l originally stumbled onto the Open Type Project, however the links and downloads are now defunct. Luckily! I downloaded all the type they had before it closed and I'm re-sharing files here as well as other sets I may personally design.
I have some individual sorts where you can modify characters and sets how you wish and ready-to-print fonts as well.
If you want to offer a thank you, sign up for my Print Club email list and call it a day.
How to Edit/Modify Files
If you're editing sorts files, you only have to resize the Y and Z axis. Just always make sure the X axis is 23.3mm high/tall (type High).
Ready-to-print fonts, just download and send to a 3D printer.
Where to get things 3D printed?
if you own your own 3D printer you're good to go! if not, check locally for a creative makers center/workshop, local universities, and many public library systems now have 3D printing labs that can print them for you.
Recommend 3D Printer Settings
Recommend 3D Printer Settings
Filament
I use PLA+ with great success. Resin is an option if you have it and as it doesn't shrink and is very durable.
Font Size Tips
Larger fonts sets with ink and print the best and are more durable. 22PT is the smallest I have right now. I would probably not go much smaller than 18PT given detail will suffer and they will be super light weight when handling.
Recommend Printer Settings
Resolution
0.2mm with a 4mm nozzle is usually fine.
Anything that has thin lines or for smaller font (30 PT or smaller?) You'll want to use a 0.25mm or 0.1mm nozzleInfill
20% Infill.
* If you use a platen press, go for 30% infill, maybe even 40%? If you have something with thin lines, go for 100% infill on the top of it then 20-30% in the body.Ironing On
Always use ironing to give the final top a nice, even finish.
DOWNLOADS
DOWNLOADS
League Gothic
League Gothic
Ready to Print Sets
After 3D Printing Tips
After 3D Printing Tips
Printer Support Clean Up
Depending on how large the font is, you'll have to cut out the supports around each piece. It's time consuming, I use a exacto knife, or very carefully, you can use a rotary tool with a sanding piece or something to get the edges off so it's even at the base and doesn't snag. Larger pieces don't need supports and come off the 3D printer ready to go.Surface Prep (optional)
Personally, unless it's super uneven (which shouldn't happen if you had ironing on), there is no point in sanding the top of each piece unless you really want to. Use something like 220 or more grit wet sand. You can take a stiff bristle brush, extra firm toothbrush or soft wire brush to give each set a little scrub to get rid of the little strings and "hairs" that get left behind from the 3D printing nozzle.Type Leveling
Sometimes sorts will shrink during/after the 3d-printing drying phase and will be shorter than others using PLA+ (apparently this doesn't happen with resin). Take some some painters tape and slowly build up the base of the sort until it's even with the rest. I have to do either 1-2 layers of painters tape if I need to level something. Super easy, one and done.Durability
I've seen a few videos and write ups on 3D-printed letterpress type. Seems they are just as durable as wooden type so set your printer packing similarly so you don't crush them. I use a proofing press so I don't have to worry but it seemsCleaning After Inking
Don't use heavy chemical based solvents, they will melt the plastic. Use a cloth rag with oil then something like Simple Green to finish.
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